Khiva 7



We are quite often in awe wandering around Khiva, open mouthed and gawping at the intricate and colorful buildings not to mention the colorful people.


We are also reminded that we are in an ordinary town as we bump into two wedding parties looking stunning if rather somber given the occasion



 



We are lead to believe that it is traditional not to smile and we should not worry about them.


Another happy group we bump into are these and whilst the adults look very pleased and proud the youngster dressed in silver should be less impressed.



Although he probably does not understand it he is off to his circumcision which happens to boys when they are either 3 or 5 no idea why the gap but  I think earlier rather than later would be his response if asked.


The lady holding the child is noted for her gold teeth which are all the rage, everyone and I mean everyone has gold teeth. Not sure but I imagine they go to the dentist not as much for a checkup but a revaluation.




We are enjoying Khiva very much and spend the rest of the time hanging around and drinking coffee watching the locals and haggling for souvenirs.
They have lots of carpets, wall hangings, paintings chess sets and trinkets although i am biding my time until we get to Buchars where Jonathan says the is more choice and keener prices.

As the day starts to wind down we are hatching a plan to come back later to try and get some sunset shots from a highpoint we have spotted before meeting up with the group for dinner somwhere in the center ofthe town.


 

Khiva 6





Well this is what we want a real honest to goodness ancient walled city. Legend has it that Khiva was founded when Shem son of Noah discovered a well here although there are several other theory’s.


Whatever the origin it has been around since the 6th century and was a fort and trading post on the Silk Route and capitol of the Timurid empire in the 16th century with a very busy slave market.


It is a Unesco World Heritage site and this stops development inside the walled area which ensures it keeps its ancient look and feel.

Here is their representation of the original Silk Route with Khiva right in the middle


and here are the walls of Khiva


 


Up early for a day touring the place with some free time in the afternoon to wander around. Entering the town through one of the ancient
gates we are confronted by a maze of streets which eventually lead us through
ruins and great mosques. It is a very picturesque place with several Madrassa
museums minarets and the slave cells inner citadel (Kunya Ark) and quite a few
people selling items which they are touting as hand made.


 



Khiva is split into two parts. The outer town, called Dichan Kala, was formerly protected by a wall with 11 gates. There is a picture below notice to the right hand side of the picture these are tombs which are a ruse as attackers were not allowed to walk over graves and so it was a sort of extra protection for the city. 

The inner town, or Itchan Kala, is encircled by brick walls, whose foundations are believed to have been laid in the 10th century. Present-day crenellated walls date back to the late 17th century and attain the height of 10 meters. The old town retains more than 50 historic monuments and 250 old houses, mostly dating from the 18th or the 19th centuries.

Djuma Mosque, for instance, was established in the 10th century and rebuilt in
1788-89, although its celebrated hypostyle hall still retains 112 columns taken
from ancient structures.



 
It’s difficult to imagine what exactly ancient Khiva was like, considering the historical areas were restored to a scrubbed and squeaky-clean look by the
Soviets in the 1970s.
It is not often the Soviets are praised for their work but this time you have to take your hats off to them an this place could so easily have been lost given how close Bukhara and Samarkand are to it. 
The clustered array of mosques, madrassahs and tiled minarets within a area of less than 3km give you a sense of how crowded and bustling this town must have been throughout its history. It was noted as being very crowded with so many people inside the walls it was difficult to make your way around.



 

Tashkent 4 I should tell you what I am up to



 

Well I am on a “5 Stans Tour” think of it as all the Stan’s except “Afgani” and Paki” although there is also “Dagi” but nobody goes there without body armor on.




Think of it as a trip along the Silk Road well the middle bit anyway.
We are starting in Uzbekistan not overly big it is the 56th country by size and 41st by population at 30 million.


It used to be part of the Russian federation but gained (gained mmm) independence 31st August 1991. Economy Cotton, Gold, Uranium, Natural Gas.


It is double land locked which means all the countries surrounding it are also landlocked. (there are only 2 of these which is the other one).


It contains the Jewels of the Silk Road Khiva, Buchara and Samarkand which traditionally belonged to Tajikistan however Stalin who decided borders put them in Uzbekistan.


There are emerging as a nation in their own right but still retain some of the paranoia of their past masters which was shown by them stopping one of our tour after she took a photo in a metro station and making her delete it not sure what they were hiding down there but whatever it’s thier country.




Today we visit the capital which is neatly laid out with quite a few new buildings which are a feature of the “Stan’s” as they start to spend some of the oil / gas money which is flowing in very fast these days.


On the other side there are lots and lots of the tatty old three story Russian style of building I was used to seeing around the Moscow region.




A fleeting tour of the “old city” and I mean fleeting we only saw one sort of back entry and so starved for something of significance we all took several pictures of a car which pulled up


 


Next was the Chorsu Bazaar which is one of those large
colorful open style markets which we used to have at home but lost when Super and Hyper markets became the norm.


Lots of local people going about their daily business buying their essentials from food to brushes and pots and pans.


This place whilst being quite busy was never the less friendly and everyone was slightly curious about this bus load of pale people who appeared and wandered around for 30 minutes photographing them.


 




All very good natured an we could have spent much longer but ever onward we a quickly shussed back onto the coach and are off to the Abu Bakr Kaffal Shashi Mausoleum. A famous imam and scientist, jurist and poet. He was born in the city of Shash. He studied in Khorasan, Baghdad, a hajj, had completed his education in Syria. After his in 976 his grave became a worship place. Over a grave there was constructed mausoleum. However it collapsed over time and in 1541-42 was erected a new mausoleum on the same spot


 

 


A minor episode distracts us for a while as one of the group falls over a tomb which is unfortunate as she gashes both shins.


Worryingly the thing is at least 2 feet of the ground and she did not see it somehow and goes down pole axed for a while while various plasters and bandages are produced.

On the plus side we seem to be fairly well equipped for most medical emergencies which is never a bad thing


 

Tashkent 3






So there we were at a little coffee stand in the middle of a delightful park asking the café owner for two white coffees when it occurred to me that we might want to check which currency to use.


Interestingly we had with us British Pounds, American Dollars, Euros, credit / debit cards from five different countries but all to no avail as what we really needed was Uzbekistan Som. Who would have guessed that three of the main currencies in the world would not be useful well you learn something every day.


We did in the end find someone who would take dollars (they do need to be pristine no creases or folds accepted) it was at a burger bar attached to a cinema complex a little further down the road.


On payment after what was some very strong coffee the lady did give us rather a large amount of change which threw us a little. There seemed to be a lot of bank notes which looked impressive but in reality were small demomination. To be clear 1000 Uzbekistan Som equals 30 UK pence or 46 US cents and the largest bank note they have is 1000 so this will be fun. 


 


Back at the hotel for a couple of hours relaxing we identify out tour guide Jonathon and try and get some money changed as we will be in the country on and off for a few days. I though $100 would be enough for the next few days


the photo shows exactly what I got 200+ of 1000 Som notes.




 

Anyway at least I can now pay for my massage which was a story not worth
telling as we checked and the hotel only take Som as well and only preapproved cards.


Dinner with our tour group was spent trying to remember names and not confusing Americans with Canadians (they are never happy to be mixed up).


Soup and minced beef on a stick a vodka or two and next you know its breakfast again and this time I avoid ordering eggs.


 

Jonathan wants us to check our cases are all there as there as he thinks there is one missing. looking at the line of bags (around 25) I do not see mine.


I have tied nice bright yellow ribbon on it (Supplied by Lan (Judi’s mum)) so I can pick it out in an instant but it’s not there. Looking around I do spy it on another trolley making its way through the door.


I stop the porter and haul my bag off and place it with the rest. These are then left outside on the pavement by our coach and as I am saying hello to people in our tour group and desperately trying to remember names I spy a different bell hop dash over and yank my case out of the pile and run off with it. I shout as loud and I can and whilst I get everyone else’s attention not his and he is busy stuffing the case into a different coach.


I of course intervene and drag it out but the guy is adamant it must go on this bus as it is on his list. You have to admire his conviction if not his accuracy as he is wrong as it is not actually on his list as we check and my room number is not there but he is still holding firmly onto my bag.
(My head is already worrying about what I would have done if I had not spotted him one set of clothes for 21 days not something I want to contemplate for too long).


A few other hotel staff join in our discussion then the tour guide and both coach drivers before the “Day Manager” orders the guy to let go of my case which he is not particularly happy about but does concede and I watch it go safely into our transport.


This day manager is now delaying our departure as he repeatedly bows and
shakes my had and apologizes over and over again until I use one hand to grab his arm giving me purchase to pull the other from his grasp. I smile and say just wait for my “Trip Advisor” review sunshine.

 


Only been on this “Vacation” for  one and a half days and already I am
getting a bit weary.

 


Anyway once aboard we set of sightseeing around Tashkent first stop Amir
Timer Square Doh!! at least I can buy coffee there now.


 


 


 


 


    

Tashkent 2







Hotel shot from the last posting



Decided to take a walk around and stretch the legs a bit.
Mike has acquired a city map so no problem getting around and with his handy compass I am pretty sure we will be ok. (Mike for future reference is my Father in law)

It is quite warm (around 30c) which does not bode well for the padded jacket and scarf I have packed we shall see.

First sight is listed as a Photographic exhibition (Ташкентский
Дом Фотографии) which I am pretty sure is Photography, Well its open and free so it would be rude not to so in we go.



Some fairly interesting oil paintings and we are accompanied all the way around by the guard who is insisting on pointing to each picture as we walk past (as if we needed help). Several big rooms full of paintings all local scenes and I have to say they are ok nothing I need to rave about but well executed (no pictures allowed).



The one thing which does strike us is that there are actually “no” photographs at all which for a Photography exhibition seems slightly odd.



We move on past the Congress center a tall white marble edifice which is very
impressive, where the guards are hiding in the shade of the trees and cross a 5
lane road to gardens of Amir Timur Square. We need to read up on our Uzbekistan history as this guy seems important.






Not too many people around but a sprinkling of them sitting on benches and kids playing, it soon becomes apparent that we are becoming the center of attention. People are surreptitiously taking pictures of us.



Now we are not standing out particularly although we are the only none locals around so not a problem for a while but it all begins to get a little out of hand when people want to take a picture of us two old Europeans smiling alongside their children (this won’t we the last time this happens on this trip). This continues for a while until we decide it is getting a little warm and we should continue and find a drink somewhere in the shade